The Auteur Is Alive And Well-Dressed
What Designer Retrospectives Miss About Fashion
Our relationship with clothing is not only aspirational and image led, a myth that spectacular exhibitions cannot help but propagate:...
Opinion
Hell on Heels
Drag Queen Survival Tips For the Next Earth Quake
Twelve economy size cans of Aqua Net or White Rain hairspray and a book of matches from Chasen's. Not only...
Words Are The Dress Of Thoughts
A man of sense carefully avoids any particular character in his dress; he is accurately clean for his own sake;...
On Indian Minimalism
As a Movement Crystalises, the Fashion Press Insists on Clichés
Because what are the all-pervasive representations that Westerners have of India? Raj nostalgia in never ending slew of costume drama...
On the (Sorry) State of Fashion Journalism
A Vestoj Talk at McNally Jackson in New York City, August 2017
Among my peers I often come across an attitude that says, ‘Well, I’m different.’ I've certainly been guilty of that...
In Praise of Cosmetics
Fashion should thus be considered as a symptom of the taste for the ideal which floats on the surface of...
Operation New Balance
Like a suit, a uniform of jeans, T-shirt, New Balance trainers and sporty jacket relies on invisibility. The person (usually...
On Mercantile Liasons
Fashion, as an industry, survives because of commerce, and commerce is the result of carefully planned media exposure: everything that...
Capsule Contradictions
Where women are concerned, then, minimalist clothing advice is aimed at tamping down on overabundant desire. Rather than taking your...
Words That Liberate
What Journalism Has Been Getting Wrong About Sustainable Fashion
While messages of disaster might grab readers’ attention, they come with the same problem as technical and scientific writing. Both...
A Pop Song In Clothes
If Hilfiger had a genius, it was less about saying something radically or interestingly new with clothing than about understanding...
My Brand Loves Your Brand
In 2017, the collaboration has become as common as the collection. It generates unfailing press, both critical and laudatory. In...