75 SIGHTINGS, PARIS FASHION WEEK A/W 2023
Peacocking: ridiculous, beautiful, moving. No coats, even in sub zero temperatures. A lot of belly buttons on display. Crowds moving...
Prose
Little Doubts Everywhere
In the 21st century ‘little doubts’ have entered the field of fashion at its core: from doubts about the necessity...
Skin and Smoke
The great black and gold stoppered boules of Lanvin—Arpège or My Sin on Bette Davis’s vanity in All About Eve,...
Losing Control
The Nineteenth-Century Beard Movement in Europe and North America
Viewed from a distance of more than a century, the nineteenth-century beard fashion looks like a basic historical fact. And...
What Fashion Is Not (Only)
Fashion is often characterised as a representation of society, its ‘most precise reflection.’ Yet, specular reflections are optical illusions based...
Joan Crawford’s Mouth
To age in public for a woman is, despite all woke societal efforts to the contrary, still hell; to age...
And Then It’s Cringe and It’s Everywhere
American Apparel and American Apparel advertisements, CSS, New Young Pony Club, Urban Outfitters, headbands worn across forehands, leggings, Steve Aoki,...
Metamorphosis
In the summer backyard, the child poses by a garden chair wearing a long red cotton yukata printed with tiny...
Un Veritable Cachemire
The idea of time as a crumpled handkerchief offers a welcome alternative to the notion of time as a linear...
Moths
Next I take out my morning suit – made in 1938 by Airey and Wheeler of 129 Regent Street for...
Betwixt and Between
Catwalk shows hardly ever begin on time. Delay, anticipation and deferment are traditionally part of the routine. Waiting for the...
Colour Codes
Flagging is a way of communicating basic information without needing to speak. Bandanas are soft introductions. They are self-labelling devices,...