The New Dress

The New Dress

Excerpt from Virginia Woolf's 1927 short story

But she dared not look in the glass. She could not face the whole horror – the pale yellow, idiotically old-fashioned silk dress with its long skirt and its high sleeves and its waist and all the things that looked so charming in the fashion book, but not on her, not among all these ordinary people. She felt like a dressmaker’s dummy standing there, for young people to stick pins into.

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Layers

Layers

Some days she flicks through the clothes hangers but finds nothing to wear. She doesn’t find it because she does not know what she is looking for. She picks out a silky shirt and dark trousers. The garments feel all wrong. Clothes that don’t quite match, trousers that don’t quite fit. Short of time, she leaves to meet the day, meet him. He says she’s beautiful. His words are ill fitting too.

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‘GOOD TIME’ AND PASSING TIME

‘GOOD TIME’ AND PASSING TIME

A conversation with Betsy Bloomingdale

In 2009 FIDM Museum in Los Angeles, exhibited Betsy Bloomingdale’s vast collection of haute couture, donated to the museum over some forty years. The wardrobe, amassed between 1961 and 1996, includes pieces from Marc Bohan for Dior, Oscar De La Renta, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and André Courrèges, among others. For Vestoj’s inaugural issue, On Material Memories, the collector is interviewed by Kevin Jones, Curator and Christina Johnson, Collections Manager at the museum.

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William Morris on Textile Fabrics

William Morris on Textile Fabrics

In his lecture to the International Health Exhibition at the South Kensington Museum, London in 1884, William Morris gives a detailed history on textiles – weaving, tapestry and dyeing – and the textile industry. His talk traces the lineage of textile craft, spanning Classical Greek decoration, Byzantine ornament, Medieval textiles, Italian silk of the fourteenth century, to Morris’ contemporary time. Morris, a textile designer himself, as well as a poet and essayist, was prominent spokesperson of the arts and crafts movement which occurred in the United Kingdom and spread to Europe and North America from 1880 to 1910.

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Clothing as Coding

Clothing as Coding

Towards a new definition of technology in fashion

Like all new-borns, wearable technologies are invariably smooth, precious and pure. In an i-Device era, the consumer is hidden from the processes of making that lie beneath the surface of the technological sublime. In the world of high fashion, designers like Iris van Herpen are weaving technology into textiles within the usual stomping ground of the avant-garde haute couturier.

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Bernice Bobs Her Hair

Bernice Bobs Her Hair

Excerpt from F. Scott Fitzgerald's 1922 short story

Bending over she found one of the braids of Marjorie’s hair, followed it up with her hand to the point nearest the head, and then holding it a little slack so that the sleeper would feel no pull, she reached down with the shears and severed it. With the pigtail in her hand she held her breath. Marjorie had muttered something in her sleep. Bernice deftly amputated the other braid, paused for an instant, and then flitted swiftly and silently back to her own room.

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